tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3079411123321019478.post4654766659268672737..comments2024-01-23T12:41:44.446+00:00Comments on The Caffeinated Engine Driver: A Tiny Worker (Bee or Ant)Markhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02418527698793489162noreply@blogger.comBlogger7125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3079411123321019478.post-44458934174874488002015-12-16T20:03:29.087+00:002015-12-16T20:03:29.087+00:00Further to the above; its easier to find certain a...Further to the above; its easier to find certain accessories for the 3 than for the SL, collet chucks for example can still be bought new. (Aftermarket SL collet chucks can be had, but availability is limited.)Paul B.https://www.blogger.com/profile/05278773151546187084noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3079411123321019478.post-43210692859250461402015-12-16T19:57:00.772+00:002015-12-16T19:57:00.772+00:00I'd start with a small bench drill, Proxxon un...I'd start with a small bench drill, Proxxon units look good but expensive. Having said that you do get what you pay for, and good kit lasts. I have seen reference on a forum somewhere to a cheap (about £60) but decent suitable sized unit on eBay, but can't remember where. Even if you have a Unimat a drill press is worth having, sometimes you just want to drill a couple of holes without setting the machine up as a mill/drill.<br /><br />One for the forum I reckon. You might even get some sensible answers...<br /><br />As fro Unimats, SLs (my machine) sell for £250-£300 on eBay, although you might find a cheaper machine on Gumtree. Unimat 3s, possibly a better buy as they're more rigid and slightly larger, tend to sell for £3-400.Paul B.https://www.blogger.com/profile/05278773151546187084noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3079411123321019478.post-35395218284578264142015-12-16T19:27:03.313+00:002015-12-16T19:27:03.313+00:00Yeah, in smaller scales either just using a can mo...Yeah, in smaller scales either just using a can motor or a motor in the horizontally in the boiler with a belt drive in the water tank makes the most sense. In larger scales (with more vertical space) I'm thinking a motor vertically under the dome driving the rear axle might work well and would leave room for cylinders inside the frames (either working or cosmetic) with rod drive to the front axle. I still haven't decided on a scale yet although I am leaning towards the larger scales.<br /><br />You are right as well that I could really do with investing in some workshop rather than hand-held tools. My main problem is that I have no real idea what I'm looking for. I've looked at a few unimats on eBay before but I've no idea if the cost being asked is reasonable or not. Just this morning I had a look on Amazon for a pillar drill but yet again I'm not sure what I should be looking at or how much I should be spending (i.e. where is the line between cheap and nasty and just good value for money). Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.Markhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02418527698793489162noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3079411123321019478.post-46970733092960106812015-12-16T17:17:01.568+00:002015-12-16T17:17:01.568+00:00Its a very good challenge, and I look forward to s...Its a very good challenge, and I look forward to seeing how different modellers work.<br /><br />I suppose if you did the Laxey locos in the smaller scales the boiler could simply be the can motor with a chimney and done glued on top, the drive belt being hidden in the water tank!<br /><br />Wheels shouldn't be a problem, simple discs with the cranks being brass overlays. Time I think that you invested in a small bench drill though.<br /><br />However you do yours, and in whatever scale you choose, I shall enjoy following the journey.Paul B.https://www.blogger.com/profile/05278773151546187084noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3079411123321019478.post-1056095646067736342015-12-16T10:15:25.515+00:002015-12-16T10:15:25.515+00:00Actually Wren was my first thought, especially as ...Actually <a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Lancashire_and_Yorkshire_Railway_0-4-0ST_locomotive_WREN.jpg" rel="nofollow">Wren</a> was my first thought, especially as I took some useful photos of it when I visited the National Railway Museum a couple of years ago. In the end I bottled out of doing it for two reasons. Firstly I thought accurately forming the saddle tank by hand might by an issue, but mostly because of the extra waggly bits visible on the outside of the frames! I can imagine fabricating coupling rods, but cylinders etc. seem a step too far. Mind you depending on how large I go scale wise I could always try and model the inside cylinders on Bee if I feel up to the challenge.Markhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02418527698793489162noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3079411123321019478.post-29693094570764847062015-12-16T10:03:05.082+00:002015-12-16T10:03:05.082+00:00For some reason, I automatically assumed you would...For some reason, I automatically assumed you would be modelling one of the little Horwich works locos, which would have been nice. But this is another thing altogether- a fantastic little loco and rather exotic in it's own way. I love the location of the water tank! I'm looking forward to reading all about the construction. Given the current, very high level of your work I expect this will be well within your capabilities, but will throw the odd challenge here and there :-) Iain Robinsonhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03633733907566547236noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3079411123321019478.post-217248546968050832015-12-16T07:56:20.284+00:002015-12-16T07:56:20.284+00:00They certainly are charming and quirky but when yo...They certainly are charming and quirky but when you mentioned the tiny size of the model (once again) I realised that I'm glad that I'm looking at photos which are enlarged!Graham Edwardshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11196744947133121475noreply@blogger.com