The instructions suggest to use the non-pointy end of a drawing compass but my compass doesn't have a removal tip. A quick hunt around and I decided that actually a Woodland Scenic foam nail would probably do the job. Unfortunately the etch doesn't include any rivet etchings to test on so I did a test on some scrap brass I had lying around. To avoid punching right through the brass I filed the point off the nail, and then with a gentle tap from the hammer added a rivet. Success on my first attempt, shame it was on the scrap brass! I tried a few more times just to make sure I'd got the force right before turning to the kit.
Unfortunately the etched holes on the kit were too small to take the ground down point of the nail, and almost nothing happened when I hit the nail while over the hole. So with some trepidation I picked up a new nail, where the point would fit in the hole, give it a gentle tap and.... a perfect rivet! Unfortunately I slipped doing the second rivet so there is a rivet on the rear buffer beam that is a tad too large, and possibly has a hole in the middle, but I'll disguise that with some rust weathering when the kit is finished. Anyway, I moved on and added the rest of the rivets to the footplate.
Once riveted the next stage is to fold down the running plate valances and then the buffer beams. The valances are long and thin and the only way to successfully fold them is with some form of tool. Fortunately my hold-and-fold was easily up to the task; I know people think these are expensive but personally I think they are worth every penny. The buffer beams then folded down with just a small amount of gentle pressure using nothing more technical than my thumb.
While the valances had folded nicely there was a small gap (it looks worse in the picture than in real life) where the valance should join the buffer beam so I filed this with a small amount of solder. It will probably need some filler as well when I get to the painting stage, but the solder will also help to strengthen the folds so was worth adding.
The next step, according to the instructions, is the cab.
I can see me enjoying this as much as you do.
ReplyDeleteAll you really need for pushing through rivets is an Edding cutting mat and a slightly blunt scriber, then simply push gently by hand, no need for a hammer. Of course a rivetting tool makes a slightly sharper job because you are pushing into a female die, but I doubt if many people have such a tool these days. Can't remember the last time I saw a truly scratchbuilt loco!
ReplyDeleteYes I should have mentioned I was doing this on a cutting mat to give a slight give under the metal. I did try doing it with just gentle hand pressure on the scrap piece, but I couldn't get a consistent result. gentle tap with the hammer seemed to work better. I would imagine using a female die would produce wonderfully crisp results, but as you say no one seems to do that any longer. Scratching building a whole loco would certainly be beyond me at this point, but maybe after I've perfected building kits I'll find a prototype I want to build for which there isn't a kit.
DeleteI use a drop hammer type tool from Eileen's Emporium. For an anvil an offcut of .060" plasticard does the job, rested on a solid surface, in my case the kitchen worktops. It is of course only really suitable for punching out rivets in an etched kit as you need a half-etched (or drilled) hole to locate the point in. I prefer this to using a nail as I can set the 'drop' to suit the material so each rivet is the same as the last, important when you consider that the RT Models Hudson hopper wagon that I built needed 244 rivets punching out just on the hopper body alone!
ReplyDeleteOne could of course be home made from studding and a couple of nuts.
Doing over 200 rivets using transfers was hard enough, I couldn't imagine doing that many by hand!
DeleteI once made a model of the record speedboat, Miss Britain III. The real boat was skinned with aluminium held to the hollow wooden frame by 10,000 monel metal flush screws! Yes, with a special tool I made, I put every one in. It took a surprisingly short time. About three days in all.
ReplyDeleteNot sure I'd have the patience for 10,000 screws even with a tool to make life easier. I bet it was an impressive model when finished.
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