While flat wagons and three bar slab wagons are great, most things I'm going to want to portray on a layout set in Yorkshire are (I think) more likely to need to be carried in a wagon with sides, so here we have a simple box shaped wagon. Whilst it may look at home on my layout (whenever I actually get around to building it) the wagon is actually based on wagons that were in common use in the Aberllefenni Slate Quarry in Wales. It is a fairly accurate model (it's ever so slightly too wide so as to accommodate the wheels) as it's based on a scale drawing in the Slate Quarry Album by Gordon and Ann Hatherill.
I was a bit worried that the axle boxes would be too fine to print properly but they have come out really well and the wheels turn really well in them so even unweighted they seem to run along the rails nicely. I definitely think I'll be printing a bunch more of these and if you happen to want any then, as with most of my 3D printed models, head over to Penistone Railway Works where I'll happily sell you some!
Ooh! This is spot-on! You have really captured the look of the prototype Mark and painted it beautifully.
ReplyDeleteNice job... that's a bit trite, brilliant job. I don't know what materials they were made of but wrought iron goes a grey colour and doesn't show rust but the axle boxes are presumably cast and that does.
ReplyDeleteI think that for birthday and Christmas you are ready for a lathe. That boiler assembly could have been stuck together with watchmakers cement. I used to use shellac and the rosin they sell for putting on violin and fiddle bows. These days you could use Superglue and bust the joint with a hot air blower...B&Q paint stripper thingy. I wish I had kept all my gear as even little things like centre finders are expensive. They do 0.0004" and up carbide drills that cut either way and leave a flat bottomed hole but they are an arm and a leg and you want to be in a sound proof room when they break. Dial gauges are a must and carboot sales in your area should yield a few at a pound or so each, same with verniers and micrometers. I made a set of wring together shims for both setting up on a face plate and also calibrating micrometers with. If you find a set get them but if any are stuck together then don't bother. They have to be used dry or you will never get them apart. We used to use some little condom things to pop on our fingers. The finer you get the more problems increase. You are not working to watchmakers tolerances but a lot of their gear is handy. They usually work at a chest high bench and their little loups are well worth a look through. Have fun.
PS. There used to be a shop on Attercliffe Common. It occupies a corner between all the knocking shops. It was there a couple of years ago because I saw it when I was down that way for an Indian, a curry not an Indian slapper. A bit of 10mm float glass will do for a face plate for you.
No wonder you don't have time for sleep Adrian.
DeleteThe Attercliffe Road shop is still there, I went in there earlier this year (whilst my wife was buying running shoes nearby) looking for a good long travel dial test indicator. Unfortunetely all the DTIs that I saw for sale were overpriced rubbish.
DeleteThat looks excellent
ReplyDeleteIt looks good to me too.
ReplyDeleteThanks everyone. I'm really happy with how it turned out. I think I've finally got the hang of the aged wood look. Glad you all like it too!
ReplyDeleteThat's a nice little wagon, and well painted. Even though its based on a prototype it should look at home on almost any layout.
ReplyDeleteOne of the reasons I picked this wagon from those shown in the book was exactly because I thought it was generic enough to be seen almost anywhere with almost any content. Having now painted it up I think it will be an excellent addition to my layout... once I've built it.
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