Just a short update on Canopus today. If you remember the last time we saw Canopus I'd fixed the retaining nuts for the coupling rods on using threadlocker and everything still seemed to work. Well today I've gone one step further and trimmed the crank pins and filed down the retaining nuts. Amazingly it all still works.
I did have one small problem in that one of the four retaining nuts came loose once I'd filed it down. I'm guessing I'd not got the threadlocker all the way along the thread. Worse when trying to reattach it, the now very thin nut, went pinging off across my study, destination unknown. With some difficulty I managed to get a new nut on to the tiny remaining crank pin along with lots of threadlocker. I then filed this nut down. Unfortunately once filed down it was also loose, so this one has been soldered in place.
Just a short update on Canopus today. If you remember 
Congratulations.
ReplyDeleteNice work Mark. Now for the trailing truck?
ReplyDeleteSlide valves, crossheads, and cylinders are next according to the instructions. The pony truck comes pretty much last as once it's fitted removing the motor will be almost impossible.
DeleteI should add that, according to an old issue of 009 News, the slide bars don't fit properly and need some alteration, so we'll have to see how that works out.
DeleteGood luck Mark - I'm sure your perserverence will be paid off in the end :)
ReplyDeleteThanks James, although every time I do a bit more work on the chassis I can see why you like building detailed bodies on RTR chassies!
DeleteThis build has been a model in patience and determination and a fascinating read. Sorry about the threadlocker...I have today had an issue with one of my diff hub covers which, according to the manual, should be tightened with the aforementioned threadlocker. It's gone... Glad you managed OK with the solder.
ReplyDeleteI have a feeling that the problematic nut was the one where the paper washer was easiest to remove which suggests I just didn't get enough threadlocker on to start with. It certainly shouldn't come off now. Depending on clearances I might solder the others on as well for safety.
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